A visual Guide of how your suit should fit.
There is a very famous saying that goes “a well tailored suit is to women, what lingerie is to men”. A well tailored suit is a man’s basic building block, making him look good and feel confident. A bespoke suit in the wardrobe is a must for every man and is a man’s uniform for elegance and class.
Here at Gulati Bespoke Tailors it does not matter how much you invest into a suit from our various ranges nor does the style that you pick matter as much as how the suit fits. We’ve had visiting clients who have overpaid for suits from high-end off the rack boutique stores that don’t hang well and fit like a box, with incorrect tapering. The main aspect of a suit is that it’s got to fit right! You may be wondering, what is the right fit? How do I get the right fit? Below you can find a Gulati Bespoke style guide, which we adhere to stringently in order to ensure that you receive the perfect fitting suit!
Lapels
Be conscious of the ties you'll be wearing with your suit, lapel width should correspond to the tie width.
ShouldersShoulders
When you try a jacket on, you are really checking to see if it fits the shoulders. It is one of the few alterations that is too expensive to be worth it. The seam should rest naturally on your shoulder. Lean against a wall: if your jacket touches first, it's too long.
ArmholesArmholes
If your armholes are too low, your whole suit will move when you stick your arm out. Opt for the modern, less boxy high armhole cut.
DartsDarts
To avoid a boxy silhouette, your suit should dart in at the waist. Even on a pre-darted suit, you should have your jacket tailored to fit your body. The thinnest point should be around the jacket's main button. (top on a 2 button, middle on a 3 button)
Sleeve LengthSleeve length
The back of the sleeve should just meet the bump on the pinky side of your hand, and should allow 1/2" of shirt cuff to show.
Jacket LengthJacket length
With your arms at your side, curl your fingers up. Your jacket should be resting in your hand. A suit jacket should cover most of your pants zipper.
Pant LegPant leg
Suit pants will rarely fit off the rack. They're cut long, intended to be tailored. Opt for a modern, straighter cut that will create a sleek silhouette, instead of a frumpy, baggy one.
PleatsPleats
Flat front shown here, but if you opt for pleats, you must wear your pants on your waist, not on your hips, otherwise they will bulge.
BreakBreak
Where the pants fold when they meet your shoe is called the "break". The pants should have one break at the bottom, and the leg should stop halfway down the shoe. This is known as a "medium break". While a personal preference, short is high fashion, and is hard to pull off, and too much break can look baggy.
CuffsCuff
A classic look and a matter of preference. Cuffs look great with pleats. No cuff shown here.